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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.